Welcome to the MKWC Foodsheds webpages! Though Foodsheds is no longer a program here at MKWC, we still have a lot of info to share with you on farming, gardening, animal husbandry, fruit trees, soils, irrigation, food preservation and more, all specific to our region.
Garden Calendars Climate Zones Soils Vegetables Fruits Pests & Diseases More Resources
Farming and gardening are all about timing. To get the best results, we need to plan our activities to align with the cycles of the soil and seasons around us. It's possible to grow food year round on the mid Klamath, but only when we time it right. Our planting and harvest dates fall in between the cool North Coast and the hot, dry Central Valley. Plant your tomatoes too early and you'll lose them to frost, too late and they won't ripen; by the time you notice peach leaf curl in the Spring, you'll realize you should have sprayed in December; if you start thinking about planting a Fall Garden when it gets chilly, you’re too late. The charts below are reminders of what to do and when, to get the best results from a year round garden! Enjoy!
The Mid Klamath region encompasses a wide array of elevations, soils and topography that have given rise to one of the most diverse flora and fauna of any temperate zone on earth. This same complexity yields a range of opportunities and challenges for farming and gardening. It is possible to grow fresh produce year round on low elevation valley floors and river bars, while higher elevations and north facing drainages are some of the coldest climate zones in the West. Banana belts offer microclimates that escape frosts, extending the growing season by many weeks on some sites.
Identifying your climate zone and microclimates will help clarify the challenges and opportunities of gardening in your area and provide a way to adapt information to your specific site. Most of the charts and calendars listed on this website are based on Sunset climate zone 14, which includes the lower elevations of Orleans, Hoopa Valley and Willow Creek. If you live in a cooler climate zone, such as Happy Camp or Seiad Valley (Sunset zone 7), you will need to adjust the information accordingly. Most gardeners are familiar with the USDA climate zones that reference a plants hardiness (or tolerance to cold). The climate zones developed by Sunset Gardening are much more detailed and are a better resource for our area. However, since most plant tags reference the USDA zones, we have included it as an additional reference.
The climate zones listed here developed by Sunset Gardening are far more detailed than USDA climate zones, taking into account factors such as frost-free days, humidity, prevailing winds, effects of ocean, elevation and regional weather patterns. (USDA climate zones are based only on annual average minimum temperature). These climate zones paint a fuller picture of our regional climate and are much more useful for describing and comparing climate in our area. Identifying your climate zone will clarify opportunities and challenges in your region and help in adjusting dates for planting, harvesting etc.
The marine air that spills inland via the Klamath and Trinity canyons moderates has a strong influence on this climate zone, delineating it's boundaries. Summer temperatures climb regularly into the triple digits in this area, producing some of the earliest tomatoes and peaches at the coastal farmers markets. The valley floors in this area are subject to hard winter frosts. There can be a 50 degree temperature swing between daytime highs and nighttime lows, a phenomenon that builds complex flavors an character in tree fruit and wine grapes. Crops that require lots of heat (i.e. peaches, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, figs,) or lots or cold (i.e. fruit trees that require winter chill) do well here. Fruit trees and berries that do not do well with extreme heat, such as apples, filberts, blueberries, benefit from being planted where afternoon shade provides relief from the most intense heat. A long growing season means year round gardening. Clear, dry spells in the winter can lead to a pattern of hard frosts that can be hard on winter gardens. Over a 20-year period, this area had lows ranging from 26 to 16º F (–3 to –9ºC). Weather records show all-time lows from 20 down to 11ºF (–7 to –12º C).
Head west from route 96 on a hot summer day on any of the roads that climb steeply from the Klamath River Canyon and you're liable to encounter coastal fog that spills over the mountains and gives rise to a dense forest that includes coastal species such as rhododendron, azalea, salal and Port Orford Cedar. The slope and coastal influence tempers the extremes of summer heat and winter chill found at the valley floors for the Klamath and Trinity. Zones 15 and 16 are areas of Central and Northern California that are influenced by marine air approximately 85 percent of the time and by inland air 15 percent of the time. The cold-winter areas that make up Zone 15 lie in cold-air basins, on hilltops above the thermal belts, or far enough north that plant performance dictates a Zone 15 designation. Many plants that are recommended for Zone 15 are not suggested for Zone 14 mainly because they must have a moister atmosphere, cooler summers, milder winters, or all three conditions present at the same time. On the other hand, Zone 15 still receives enough winter chilling to favor some of the coldwinter specialties, such as English bluebells, which are not recommended for Zones 16 and 17. Lows over a 20-year period ranged from 28 to 21°F (–2 to –6°C), and record lows from 26 to 16°F (–3 to –9°C).
The "river fog" that creeps up the Klamath from the coast typically makes it no farther than Somes Bar, marking the transition between zone 14 and Zone 7. Zone 7 is named for the Gray pines that rim the mid elevation around the Central Valley, in our region mingled with more adaptable incense cedars. Average temperatures are lower than zone 14, the occasional snow that reaches the lower elevations of the Mid Klamath are likely to stick around a bit longer here. Microclimates can make a big difference for gardening - south and west aspects with some elevation are markedly warmer and enjoy more frost free days. This is an ideal climate for plants that require a marked seasonal pattern—flower bulbs, peonies, lilacs, and flowering cherries, for example. Deciduous fruit trees (apples, pears, apples, peaches, and cherries) do well. At weather-recording stations in Zone 7, typical winter lows range from 35 to 26°F (2 to –3°C),with record lows averaging from 18 to -0° F (–8 to –18°C)
Climb high enough in the Mid Klamath and eventually you hit the coldest climate zone where extended low winter temperatures are the most limiting factor, shortening the growing season and ruling out any plants that are not frost hardy. Marked by a short growing season and relatively mild summer temperatures, Zone 1A includes the coldest regions west of the Rockies, excluding Alaska, and a few patches of cold country east of the Great Divide. The mild days and chilly nights during the growing season extend the bloom of summer perennials like columbines and Shasta daisies. If your garden gets reliable snow cover (which insulates plants), you’ll be able to grow perennials listed for some of the milder zones. In years when snow comes late or leaves early, protect plants with a 5- or 6-inch layer of organic mulch. Along with hardy evergreen conifers, tough deciduous trees and shrubs form the garden’s backbone. Gardeners can plant warm-season vegetables as long as they are short-season varieties. To further assure success, grow vegetables from seedlings you start yourself or buy from a nursery or garden center. Winter lows average in the 0 to 11°F (–18 to –12°C) range; extremes range from –25 to –50°F (–32 to –46°C). The growing season is 50 to 100 days.
As one gains elevation in the Mid Klamath the growing season shortens due to late Spring and early Fall frost, and more snow in the winter. One of the West’s most narrow, linear climates, Zone 4 runs from high in the coastal mountains of Northern California to southeastern Alaska, losing elevation as it moves north. It gets considerable influence from the Pacific Ocean, but also from higher elevation. Extending the season with a cold frame, greenhouse and row covers is key to a productive garden.
Average winter lows in Zone 4 range from 34°F (1°C) down to 28°F (–2°C),with extreme lows averaging 8 to 0°F (–13 to –18°C). The growing season is 150 to 200 days long, but because Zone 4 summers are temperate (highs average from the low 60s to the 70s), plants take more time to develop. If you’re growing vegetables, for example, add at least 50 percent to the days-to-harvest figure listed on the seed package, or start your garden from transplants.
Most gardeners are familiar with the USDA zones listed in the adjacent map and chart, they account only for the minimum average annual temperature so they are used to rate a plant’s cold-hardiness. Using this system, most of the Mid Klamath falls into climate zones 8 & 9.
Microclimates are small pockets of climate variations that differ from the surrounding climate. By identifying and using microclimates you can grow fruit and veggies not normally recommended for your climate zone. Pay attention to the way the sun travels across your property throughout the season. Look for cold spots and hot spots. A maximum-minimum thermometer placed at different locations will tell you a lot about your microclimates. Here are a few other things to look for.
Slope - the Banana Belt Effect – Cold air moves like water, so in spring and fall a valley floor will usually be significantly colder than a slope. Some slopes are called banana belts, because they remain frost-free much longer than valley floors, which may be subjected to hard frosts, a common phenomenon in the Mid Klamath. Banana belts occur in areas with at least a 3 ½ % slope (150 feet/ mile) that is 100 to 200 feet higher than the nearest spot where frost can settle. These banana belts can be 8 – 15 degrees warmer on frosty nights. Utilize this if you are in a cold climate and are concerned about frost damage, make the best use of slopes when available.
Aspect - A south-facing slope is, of course, much warmer than a north-facing slope. Western slopes receive the hotter, more intense afternoon sunshine, while eastern slopes receive the less intense morning sun. A south facing wall is a good place to plant a tree that needs extra heat in order to ripen. If the wall has an overhang, it will also provide some frost protection. The influence of aspect can become dramatic in the winter when some north facing slopes and drainages may receive little or no sun; these areas often retain frost all day long on the shortest days, while adjacent areas with a different aspect may be warm and sunny.
Treeline, Ridgeline & Shade- The steep valleys and tall conifer forests of the Mid Klamath region create lots of shaded areas. Shade can be an asset in the long, hot days of summer, creating microclimates for crops that are less heat tolerant; and a liability in the winter, when shaded areas may never see the sun and retain ice and frost the entire day.
Thermal mass – Water and stone will absorb heat during the day and re-radiate it at night. A stone or brick wall can be an ideal place for ripening a late fruit crop. Translucent jugs of water placed in a greenhouse or around fruit trees will re-radiate heat at night. A small pond will serve as a heat sink in the summer and fall, and a cold sink in spring and winter. Watering before an anticipated frost will increase re-radiated heat – the wet soil will absorb more heat than dry soil during the day, and release more at night.
Wind – Strong wind can dehydrate plants, damage fruit and decrease air temperatures. Wind protection can be especially important in coastal or desert regions. The best windbreak is one that slows wind down rather than stopping it. A solid wall set perpendicular to prevailing winds will result in lots of turbulence on the downwind side. Hedges, vines, lattice fences and screens allow some wind to pass through without creating turbulence.
It all starts with soil. There are many gardening products available to increase the health and productivity of your farm or garden. You could spend a lot of money and not get the results you are looking for because you may not be giving your soil and plants what they need. Before investing time, energy and money on products you may or may not need, it is a good idea to get to know your particular soil. Soil testing can be a simple, cost effective investment ($35 from A & L Labs) that will inform and guide you on how to best improve fertility and productivity of your farm or garden. Soil testing is also a useful way to diagnose problems that could be coming from your soil. The download below covers: soil management basics, soils of the Klamath-Trinity region, soil amendment chart, cover crops, mulch, and further resources.
Timing is everything when gardening in the Klamath-Trinity – the distinct difference in seasons means that it’s essential to sow Spring, Summer and Fall plantings on time to make full use of the growing season. If lettuce and greens are planted too late in the Spring then they will bolt in the heat before they mature; if tomatoes are planted too early they may be killed by Spring frosts, too late and you’ll end up with a lot of green, unripe fruit in October; the Fall garden needs to be planted out in late August/ early September to size up before the cold weather sets in.
The charts below are based on the Orleans-Hoopa-Willow Creek area, Sunset climate zone 14, so you'll need to adjust the dates accordingly, sowing later n the Spring and earlier in the Fall.
Mid Klamath Garden Calendar
Planting Calendar for Klamath-Trinity Region
Seeds are sown either directly into the ground or in flats to be transplanted later. What follows is a brief description of the process of growing from seed. Here are several good pamphlets with more details:
Propagating Plants from Seed - A thorough description of growing vegetables from seed, published by Washington State University.
Scheduling Vegetable Plantings for Continuous Harvest - This publication helps growers plan planting times and succession planting, by providing soil temperature germination ranges and other information of assistance to market gardeners.
Sowing seeds in pots or flats. Seeds grown in flats will get a head start on the season; once they are planted in the field they’ll have a head start on weeds and outcompete pests; they can be planted out to the correct spacing, and growing in flats makes watering easier and saves a lot of garden space while you’re waiting for the plants to germinate and size up. Seeds in flats need a warm, sunny place to grow. A sunny windowsill will work, but plants will often become long and “leggy”, from stretching towards the sun. A cold frame or greenhouse is best. See this article on building a cold frame. You can build a quick cold frame with straw bales and old windows by arranging the bales into a U shape and placing the window over the top. The open end prevents the plants from overheating, though you’ll still need to check them on sunny days.
Containers - There is a wide variety of containers available for growing seeds, many can be had for free from nurseries or farms, but be sure to ask if there are any diseases or pests in or on the containers – If you do not already have the brown garden snail or garden slugs then be cautious about bringing potted plants and used seedling flats and containers into your garden as this is the most common way the snails are spread. A container should be at least 3 inches deep to accommodate good root growth. Make sure containers have slits or holes in the bottom so that water can drain freely. Seed flats are large trays with continuous soil, six packs are divided into individuals cells.
Potting Soil – Potting soil is available at any garden supply store, and has the advantage of having the right nutrients and being weed free. You can also make your own potting soil by mixing fertile garden soil with good compost and some sand if necessary. If the compost is not rich enough you’ll need to add a nitrogen source such as well composted manure, be careful not to use too much or the young seedlings will “burn”. Make sure you fill your flats all the way to the top and tap the container, the soil will settle and you want it as full as possible.
Sowing Seeds – Follow the instructions on the seed packet. Rule of thumb is to plant seeds to a depth that is twice their width. For small seeds you can place them and then cover with potting soil, plant larger seeds into mini furrows or press them into the soil. Once planted, seeds need to be kept moist, but not too wet. The number one reason for failure is plants drying out, so if possible put your cold frame or greenhouse in a well-travelled place so that you’ll remember to check your plants often. A light watering from a can or garden spray nozzle will prevent compaction, don’t water with a heavy spray directly into the flats as you’ll end up with hard, compacted soil. Avoid watering too late in the day to prevent molds and “damping off”, a Phytopthora fungus, that can develop in over-watered seed flats and results in seedlings wilting at the soil level.
Transplanting Seedlings – Seedlings grown in six packs can often be transplanted directly into the bed. Seedlings planted at tight spacing in flats will need to be “pricked out” and transplanted into larger containers such as 4 x 4 inch pots. Do this when plants have developed at least two to four true leaves (don’t count the very first leaves that emerge, the cotyledons, these are not true leaves). Plants that benefit from potting, include tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, basil and the brassica family crops - broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, collards, etc.
You can till the ground as soon as it is ready in the early Spring or late Winter, but if the weather is still cold and wet any seeds may not germinate. Tilling the soil when it’s too wet or dry will destroy the soil structure and kill beneficial microbes. Be careful when using a rototiller as it’s easy to over till and destroy the soil structure this way. To test the soil, grab a handful and squeeze it into a ball, then poke it with a finger. If it doesn’t hold a ball it’s likely to be too dry, if the ball does not fall apart when poked it’s likely to be too wet to till. If you have cover crops to turn in, the best time is when they are in ¾ bloom. Till under with a rototiller or use a shovel to cut and turn the green cover crop. Allow the cover crop to break down for 1-2 weeks depending on the soil temperature. It will need to be watered in to break down.
Use the chart below as a guide for amending your soil. The Biointensive Sustainable Mini-Farming Handbook gives more details on preparing your garden.
The last frost in the Spring and the first in the Fall set the limit for many garden crops, but there are many ways to extend the season and get better growth. Simple strategies such as protecting plants with a thin layer of fabric or plastic, deciding where you place a plant, and then selecting the right varieties can make the difference between a plant freezing out or thriving. By growing varieties that store well it’s possible to enjoy homegrown produce throughout the winter.
A floating row cover is a lightweight, semi-transparent fabric used to cover garden plants. The lightest fabrics can be laid directly over the garden bed and/or crop without any support and provide a few degrees of frost protection. Slightly heavier fabrics can be supported by wire hoops and provide up to 8 degrees of frost protection. Use 10 gauge hardened galvanized wire cut to 36 inch lengths and bent into an arc, and place them in the soil at 3 to 4 foot intervals. Weigh the edges down with soil, rocks, fence posts, or whatever you have to keep them from blowing away. Row cover has the additional benefit of keeping pests away, such as cabbage worms, tomato hornworms, flea beetles and quail. Be careful with row cover in heavy rain or snow as it can flatten and crush the plants
A cold frame is a simple structure for raising seedlings, which is low to the ground, with a glass or plastic top, and back and sides made of wood or straw bales. Building a Cold Frame is a great pamphlet by Karen Wortman of Hidden Springs Farms that walks you through the process.
Most greenhouses in our area are actually just walk-in tunnels; a metal hoop house covered with UV resistant greenhouse plastic. A greenhouse is a tremendous way to extend the season, providing a place to start seeds in flats and containers as well as garden beds for overwintering greens, salads, cold-hardy citrus and even avocados.
Selecting cold hardy varieties of subtropical fruits is another way to extend the season. Citrus trees produce in the winter months when fresh fruit is in low supply, and there are many cold hardy varieties suited to our region. Depending on your microclimate you may need to plant them in a greenhouse or under the eave of a south facing wall, and/ or be willing to cover them during a cold snap. Here’s a list of cold hardy citrus and the low end of temperatures they tolerate: Kumquat, 18 degrees ; Meyer Lemon, 18 degrees F, Satsuma Mandarin, 15 – 18 degrees F, Ichang Lemon, zero degrees F(!), There are also several varieties of cold hardy avocado, including Brazos Belle, Lila, Topa Topa, Mexicola, Joey, Ganter and Fantastic. Cold tolerance ranges from 25 all the way down to 10 degrees.
There are many fruit and vegetable varieties that can be stored for fresh produce through the winter. Root crops can be sown in late summer and left in the ground all winter. Sow carrots in early and late July; sow beets, rutabaga, turnips and parsnips in mid August. Winter squash and potatoes will keep for months in a cool, dry, dark place. Fresh fruit is the best source of vitamin C to combat flue season. Varieties of late season fruits that store well, include kiwis, pineapple guavas, persimmons, and apples. Storage apple varieties that do well in our region include Arkansas Black, Braeburn, Fuji, Granny Smith, Hauer, Newtown Pippin, Pink Lady, Spitzenburg, and Waltana.
The Mid Klamath region is excellent country for fruits, berries and nut trees. The winters provide the chill necessary for many temperate zone varieties; the intense summer heat is ideal for ripening stone fruits such as peaches; the long season means we can grow sub tropicals like figs, pomegranates and persimmons; and the wide temperature wings characteristic of our fall weather pattern is ideal for developing complex flavors in wine grapes and tree fruits. In the download below, there is information about planning your orchard, fruits and nuts at a glance, buying and planting fruit, nuts, and berries, and managing your orchard.
December is the Time to Manage Peach Leaf Curl
Most gardeners in the Klamath-Trinity have encountered Peach Leaf Curl – the curled, deformed leaves that appear on peaches and nectarines in the early spring. Problem is, by the time it’s visible it is already too late to treat it; in fact, the ideal window for controlling peach leaf curl is coming up in early to mid-December. Peach leaf curl is caused by a fungus, Taphrinia deformans, and can be either a nuisance, or lethal to the tree, depending on its severity and the age of the tree. The fungus is found just about anywhere peaches are grown, and is particularly damaging following warm, wet winter-Spring weather. The options for control are selecting immune varieties such as Frost, Q-1-8, Oregon Curl Free, resistant varieties (such as Red Haven, Rio Oso Gem) that contract the disease but bounce back quickly; and/ or applying a sufur-based dormant spray before the leaf buds swell, which occurs in our area in mid-December. Many exasperated gardeners miss this critical window and find that even after spraying they still have the curl. A brief look at the life cycle of peach leaf curl will reveal that timing of this spraying is essential: a dormant spray must be applied before the buds crack and swell, or it will not have any effect on controlling the disease. The best material to use, lime sulfur, is also the least toxic.
Life Cycle - By the time a gardener sees peach leaf curl in the spring, the fungus has already penetrated the cellular tissue of the foliage and is doing its damage. At this point the fungus is immune to treatment. Though foliar feeding with compost tea or concentrated kelp solution will help to fortify the tree and bring it through the infection, no amount of fungicide will help the situation. Leaves affected by the curl eventually shrivel completely and fall off and the tree pushes new leaves to replace the damaged ones. The peach leaf curl will continue to attack the new foliage until temperatures rise and humidity decreases; it takes several days in a row above 85 degrees F for the fungus to go dormant, so only after a stretch of warm, dry weather will the disease symptoms will slow down and eventually disappear. The fungus forms tough spores that are resistant to heat and desiccation in order to survive the summer. These spores germinate with the first fall rains and remain active during the winter as long as temperatures are over 45 degrees F.
Look closely at a dormant peach bud in late November/ early December and you’ll see a tightly closed bud protected by a waxy scale. Sometime in late December or January, depending on location, peach buds will swell slightly and crack the protective scale, leaving them susceptible to the fungus. In our mild winters this bud swell happens 1 to 2 months before the peach blooms, much earlier than most gardeners realize. Applying a dormant spray before this bud swell is the key to controlling leaf curl. Timing depends on weather, but in our low elevation areas it can occur as early as mid-December in a sunny winter. In higher elevation colder areas it will be much later. For these low, warmer areas, apply the first spray in early December, and then another in mid to late January. The first spray is the most critical, and some gardeners forgo the second application and accept some peach leaf curl. Researchers at Washington State University found that lime sulfur (calcium polysulfide), a low-toxic spray that is approved for organic production, is the best material for controlling peach leaf curl. A dormant oil will help the mix stick to the branches and also smother soft body insect pests and eggs. Copper sulfate is also used, but copper can build up in the soil and is toxic to earthworms and beneficial soil fungus, whereas the lime sulfur breaks down rapidly. Lime sulfur used to be readily available in any gardening store but is now hard to find. Peaceful Valley Farm Supply sells it in a 2.5 gallon container, which is far more than most gardeners or homesteaders need. It does not store for more than a few months, so if you buy this much then be sure to share it with friends.
Cultural Control – A healthy soil and a healthy tree is the first step in disease control. Fertilize your trees each year with compost and or aged manures. It is good to add a source of calcium and phosphorous every 3-5 years, use oyster shell flour for calcium and soft rock phosphate for phosphorous. Foliar feeding with concentrated kelp solution, will help to fortify the tree and bring it through the infection. Turning in the fallen leaves in autumn or raking them up and adding them to your compost pile will reduce the amount of fungal inoculant.
What's up With the Worms in My Cherries? It's the Spotted Wing Drosphila
Drosophila suzukii, is a new pest that has recently arrived the Klamath-Trinity region. It's a small fruit fly that lays several eggs in ripening cherries. The worms hatch out and burrow through the flesh, turning the fruit brown and ruining it. The real bummer is that this same pest will infest other fruits such as berries, persimmons and stone fruit.
Control - Trapping is used in commercial orchards to detect and monitor fly populations. While trapping has not proven to be an effective control in large orchards, it could make a difference in the more remote and isolated homestead gardens and farms found in our area. Traps are easy and cheap to make using any plastic containers baited with apple cider vinegar. Each adult female fly lives up to two weeks and can lay up to 100 eggs a day, and each trap will catch dozens of flies, so trapping makes a difference. Hang traps as soon as you start to see some color in the fruit and look for small flies with the identifying two spots on the wing. (See below). Avoid over watering fruit trees and berries as this splits the fruit and attracts more flies. Harvesting ripe fruit promptly and disposing of damaged fruit by either bagging it up or crushing it and letting it dry in the sun will reduce the fruit fly population. Most insecticides are broad spectrum and will kill beneficial insects such as predators and honeybees as well as the target pest. Spinosad is an organically approved insecticide that has been shown effective controlling the Two Spotted Drosophila.
How to Trap the Two Spotted Drosophila - You can use any plastic container with a firm lid to make a trap, plastic soda/water bottles, or yogurt containers work great . Clean out the container, drill 5/16 inch holes around the perimeter, and place a few inches of vinegar with a few drops of dish detergent. Drill two holes on opposite sides near the top of the container and string a wire to hang the trap in a fruit tree. One container will trap scores of flies, and each female lays over 1,000 eggs, so you are preventing thousands of infestations by trapping!
There are two significant insect pests that attack apples: The Codling Moth is a native insect that has been around forever, though problematic, it does not destroy the entire fruit, it's possible to manage and live with. The Apple Maggot, a more recent arrival to some sites in the Klamath Trinity region, is far more damaging and often renders the fruit un usable for either fresh eating or processing. This pest exists in our area, but not everywhere, so if you have it it is very important to avoid spreading it by moving your fruit.
The Codling Moth, Cydia pomonella, is a common pest that bores into the fruit (including apples, pears and walnuts), eats the seed, and exits; sometimes you will find the "worm: (actually a caterpillar) in the fruit, sometimes just the trail and frass. This is a native insect that has been around for years, and while it causes significant damage, the fruit can still be sliced for fresh eating or processed for cider or preserves. Populations fluctuate, so there are good years and bad years. As with most pests, there is no "magic bullet", and it is necessary to employ several strategies - Clean up "strikes" (infected fruit) and dispose of by burying or composting thoroughly in a hot pile. Place confusion pheromone lures in trees to disrupt mating and reduce adult populations. Further control methods include the application of granliosis virus (Cyd-Ex), Spinosad insecticide, and kaolin clay directly to fruit (Surround) though these methods tend to e feasible only for commercial scale growers.
The Pest Notes bulletin from UC Davis provides a succinct description of the Codling Moth life cycle and control. This UC Pest Management Guide is more detailed and includes links to their website for more information.
Codling moth
Apple maggot
The Apple Maggot, Rhagoletis pomonella, is a serious pest that completely destroys fruit that it infects - It is present in some, but not all, of the Klamath Trinity region. IF YOU HAVE THIS PEST IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU DO NOT SPREAD IT BY MOVING YOUR FRUIT AROUND!!!! If you have the apple maggot DO NOT move your fruit from your site - it is not good for juice or preserves and you will only be infecting other site with the pest. Populations can be reduced by thoroughly cleaning and burying infested fruit. If you are not using the fruit consider removing the tree(s) that are infested rather than harbor and propagate a serious pest. This UC Pest Management Guide has more detailed information on the Apple Maggot.
The California Garden Web - A web portal for University of California's vast collection of research-based information about gardening to the public.
Biointensive Sustainable Min-Farming This mini-handbook by Margo Royo-Miller is an excellent introduction to the Biointensive method, with lots of basic info on soil preparation, composting, carbon farming and companion planting.
Resource Guide to Organic and Sustainable Vegetable Production by ATTRA, geared for the market farmer.
Territorial Seeds Growing Guides - A great reference that lists detailed information by crop, including sowing and cultivating instructions, pests, and harvest info.
Seed Planting Instructions from Siskiyou Seeds - Helpful info and chart on sowing seeds, based in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon, so it's very relevant to our area.
Season Extension Techniques for Market Gardeners is a good overview of the use of row covers, mulches, hop tunnels and greenhouses to extend the season.
How to Build Wilson Forbes' Chicken Tractor, (with Plans) shows how to construct a poultry shelter that is easily moveable by one person and provides shelter, food and shade for chickens as well as easy access for cleaning and egg collection.
Alternative Poultry Production Systems and Outdoor Access - A good how-to guide by ATTRA on raising layers and meat birds and providing pasture.
Small Scale Poultry Processing - A thorough manual on processing poultry for the homestead or small farm by NCAT, good supplement to our poultry processing workshop.
Small-Scale Sustainable Rabbit Production - Rabbits are the most efficient animal at converting plants into meat, ad very practical for the homestead, another ATTRA publication.
Complete Guide to Home Canning, by USDA and Utah State, An excellent and extensive 196 page resource on home canning published by the USDA. The link above will take you to the complete document, this link will take you to the USDA website where the document is divided into seven chapters, so you can download the parts that you need.
A handy reference chart for pressure canning showing minutes and pressure for various foods in quart and pint jars.
The Home Orchard, by Chuck Ingels, Pamea Geisel, UCANR Publications, 2007. Developed especially for use by backyard orchardists, rare fruit growers, and small-scale growers, The Home Orchard offers a comprehensive look at standard growing methods, as well as some innovative practices that enthusiasts have developed in recent years, some of which are uniquely suited to the small-scale grower.
Pruning Manual by Dan Lurie, Filoli Gardens Newsletter - This is the best pruning manual we've seen. Divided into three sections - Principles of Tree Growth, Training Young Trees, and Pruning Mature Trees, published in The Sundial, a newsletter of Filoli Gardens.
Pruning to Restore an Old, Neglected Apple Tree, by R. L. Stebbins and J. Olsen, Oregon State Univertity - This completes the manual above by showing how to restore an old tree that has not been pruned for years; (hint: it takes a few years). Follow this simpe, concise guide for good results.
Pruning Notes - Here are the Pruning Notes for the workshop that Mark DuPont teaches, including links to sources for pruning tools, books etc.
Principles of Grafting and Budding - If you want the full scoop on grafting, the why as well as the how, then this chapter on grafting, posted by UC Davis, is a good, comprehensive overview of grafting principles and techniques.
Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees - This pamphlet by Penn State boils it down to the basics of how to graft using a variety of techniques. ( Good photos, but most professional grafters use a different hold on the knife).
Grafting Fruit Trees - This is a useful Power Point presentation by Lloyd Collet of Oregon State University - nice photos of the step-by step processes involved in a variety of grafts.
Seeds for Life is a local seed bank working to conserve and regenerate bio-regional seed diversity through the development and education of a network of skilled seed stewards.
Seed Savers Exchange is a non-profit organization dedicated to saving and sharing heirloom seeds. Since 1975, members have been passing on our garden heritage by collecting and distributing thousands of samples of rare garden seeds to other gardeners.
The Seed Ambassadors Project is dedicated to preserving regional seed sovereignty. They produce and distribute this awesome Guide to Seed Saving, Seed Stewardship & Seed Sovereignty, which they encourage everyone to use and share freely!
Fedco Co-op Garden Supplies - A cooperative offering a wide selection of seeds and gardening supplies.
Johnny's Selected Seeds - Employee owned company offering a wide variety of seed for home gardeners and commercial farmers.
Redwood Seeds - A regional seed company focusing on varieties adapted to Northern California.
Renee's Garden Seeds - Heirloom and gourmet vegetable, flower and herb seeds
Seed Savers Exchange Catalog- The catalog of a non-profit organization dedicated to saving and sharing heirloom seeds. Since 1975 an extensive member base has collected and distributed thousands of rare garden seeds.
Siskiyou Seeds - Certified organic, open pollinated seeds grown in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon.
Syngergy Seeds - Organic seeds produced in the Trinity Valley by George Stevens.
Territorial Seed Company - Family owned Seed company based in Cottage grove, Oregon.
Composting - Here's a simple how-to pamphlet by New York State Department of Environmental Conservation, and a more detailed one by Leslie Cooperband of University of Wisconsin-Madison.
Cover Cropping is one of the best and cheapest ways to build your soil. Preston Sullivan of ATTRA put together this good overview. See our Soils page for more specific, regional info.
A Soil Analysis is a worthwhile investment if you plan to garden a site for more than a season. We recommend A & L Westertn Soil Lab. It's well worth the extra buck for the graphical analysis report.
When it's time to interpret the results, the best reference is this booklet from Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, a thorough and informative publication- highly recommended!
Rainwater Harvesting - Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond. a set of books and also a website by Brad Lancaster with loads of practical information on just that – how to harvest, store and utilize rainfall and redesign landscapes to maximize the efficient use of water; including calculators for gauging rainfall, sizing tanks and systems, diagrams, links to materials etc.
Greywater Utilization - Any waste water that goes down your drain aside from your toilet is greywater, and can be used again to irrigate your landscape. Oasis Design has a series of books on greywater utilization, laundry to landscape, and water capture and storage. Their book “Create an Oasis with Greywater” is one of the best on the topic.
Laundry to Landscape is when you re-route your washing machine to irrigate your landscape, saving thousands of gallons of water. This webpage does a great job of breaking the process into five steps, with photos and instructions. Here's a downloadable PDF from Oasis with lots of good details and diagrams, and this link provides a nice schematic that allows you an overview of an entire system.
Drought Gardening - A drought doesn't mean you have to stop growing food. It does mean you have to farm & garden differently. The Thrivalists Guide to Drought Gardening by Kyle Keegan is a comprehensive manual on soil management, variety selection, no till, swales, Hugelkultur, biochar and more, for producing food in drought.
Drip Irrigation uses up to 80% less water and saves time and money. Harmony Farm Supply has a great webpage with design and installation instructions. Dripworks is another great local company with prompt service to our area, as well an an online drip irrigation manual.
The Water Institute, In 2004 the Occidental Arts and Ecology Center (OAEC) established the WATER Institute (Watershed Advocacy, Training, Education, & Research) to promote understanding of the importance of healthy watersheds to healthy communities. Building upon OAEC’s many years of work to protect Coastal California’s watersheds, the WATER Institute concentrates on four interrelated and equally strong program components: advocacy and policy development; training and support; education and demonstration; and research.
Check Your Water Efficiency - This pamphlet by the Salmon Creek Water Conservation Program walks through a residential water audit, showing how to gauge your own water use, detect leaks and optimize your water management.
Resilience in a Time of Drought: A Transferable Model for Collective Action in North Coast
Watersheds is a practical 'how-to' guide for community members, restoration practitioners, nonprofits, and other stakeholders wishing to establish a voluntary water conservation program in their watershed. This guide was developed based on the methods and findings of a collaborative technology transfer project that was initiated in Humboldt County, California in 2013 by Sanctuary Forest and Salmonid Restoration Federation in collaboration with Sara Schremmer, a graduate student in the sociology program at Humboldt State University.
Thanks to the USDA for support for these Foodshed webpages, specifically the Beginning Farmer and Rancher Development Program of the National Institute of Food and Agriculture, Grant # 2011-49400-30497 and the USDA-National Institute of Food and Agriculture-Agriculture and Food Research Initiative Food Security Grant # 2012-68004-20018.